In the first writing of my backpacking trip to Europe, half a lifetime before, I have given you the beginning and ending of my adventure. Now I'll share with you the really exciting, fun, wonderful moments that ran throughout this first daring 'all by myself' journey.
My trip to Europe spanned from August through October, which I'd read would be less crowded with tourists, and as I traveled that turned out to be true. Landing in Rome was indeed awesome, flying in over the Vatican and roof-top gardens on ancient buildings, along busy cobblestone streets. I headed for the closest pensione noted in my travel book and settled in. It was a very tiny private room, with a washbasin and the communal toilet just down the hall. No bath or shower, so I had to manage with my small sink, but I was up to it just to be in Rome.
Over my month and a half stay in Italy I traveled by bus and train from the toe of the boot all the way up to Venice. I followed the life of Michelangelo to every possible corner. Climbed up and around the Leaning Tower of Pisa and found it was much smaller than I had imagined. The Sistine Chapel Ceiling was outrageously beautiful and that was before the restoration. I felt weak in my knees looking up and finally sat on the floor for quite some time wishing I could just lay on my back for hours in admiration of the work of art. Seeing the Statue of David also took my breath away, and the hundreds of marble statues throughout Italy were incredible. I especially was enthralled with Michelangelo's unfinished piece where it appeared the man was literally climbing from within the block of marble. Fantastic!
I had one after-dark tour of the Tivoli Gardens with lush plantings draped along massive stepped plantings that had been threaded with tiny electric lights for night viewing. I had opted for 'art as food for soul' rather than money for food. Lost a few pounds, felt wonderfully full of new found energy. Yes, I tossed coins in many fountains and when no one was looking even dipped my bare feet in one fountain after walking miles. Thinking of food, I managed most meals on fresh fruits and vegetables stopping for a pastry once in a while with a cup of tea. Remember, I travel on the cheap. I meet the real people.
One aside you might enjoy me sharing: I had read that women were often pinched on the butt as tourists. In order to fit in with the locals I opted not to shave my legs or underarms. Very 'bohemian' and very Italian at the time. I was never pinched on the butt. Besides, I found that at 5'7" I was taller than most Italian men and my size 8 shoe was probably bigger than theirs. I did 'hitch-hike' from Venice out to Burano the island of lace making, and Murano the famous island of glass blowing, generally in a very small motor craft.
I finally decided to head for Greece on a moments notice, the way I generally like to travel. That's how my suitcase was left behind at the dock. Three weeks later the suitcase caught up with me, sorry to say, and I had to lug it around once again. My greatest travel lesson, pack only what you absolutely need to pack. I ended up generally wearing the same half dozen outfits again and again, which certainly fit in my backpack alone. Another travel hint that I obeyed, "leave your expensive jewelry at home."
Arriving by ship to the port outside Athens, brought us through a very narrow passage with high cliffs to either side and armed Greek military guards standing along the edge with their high-powered rifles and looking very stern in deed. You could almost touch the walls of the passage from the deck of the ship by leaning over close. The ship had to enter this space with engines cut way back so we were sort of drifting.
I had read, in my little travel book, that the best place to spend my first night would be the YWCA, where someone would speak English, the dorm-style rooms were clean and orderly, you could shower and do some laundry and the cafeteria buffet-style was decent. I stayed and recouped before heading out on my own the next day.
I did find that as an American female I could have a free-lunch just by walking by the sidewalk restaurants near the ruins. A Greek man would offer me a seat at his table, always one who did speak a little English: "Now that you've had lunch, would you accompany me to my flat/" I would show surprise at such a question and adamantly reply. "Thank you for lunch, but no." "That's alright, my friends have seen you dining with me and will believe you have fulfilled my wish. That's enough for me." Well, what do you expect? Of course, there is such a thing as 'a free lunch' if you plan carefully.
As in Italy, I went to every ruin I could get to by bus or train. I met delightful people along the way, others who were backpacking. We would join together from time to time which allowed me to enjoy some after dark outings at small restaurants on various Greek Islands. Passing from one island to the next by boat I paid for the lower level, because it was cheapest. There were no women and the men looked a bit scary. I managed to talk the 'gate-keeper of the stairs' to let me go up top. He allowed me to escape and the view from that level was gorgeous. From Mykonos to Crete we passed an island that had steep cliffs where donkeys were carrying passengers and luggage up zig-zag trails. Our boat didn't stop there, but I was told this was the Island of Santorini I knew I had to return. Once on Crete I announced I would like to catch the next boat back that very night. "Sorry, you'll have to wait until morning. No more boats tonight."
I soon found a small pensione where I could stay the night. I decided to take a walk out through the vineyards. A wagon being pulled by a horse stopped in front of me. There were two men riding atop piles of freshly picked grapes, with two women children walking alongside. One of the men reached back into the wagon and handed me a huge bunch of beautiful grapes, saluted me, then they went on their way. The sun was just setting and it had become a serendipity that I had to remain for that night.
I did catch the morning boat to Thera after a cup of very strong coffee thick with grounds. The night before at the pensione an Italian couple shared a special drink with me, apparently some grapes are buried in the ground to rot over time before being made into this very pungent drink. A couple sips is guaranteed to give you a very good night's sleep. I'll save my stay on Thera for the next part.
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